Well, we are not in Portomarin, even though we did walk there today. We are back in our palatial suite in Sarria. There was apparently no suitable accommodation available in Portomarin when we booked, so the agent arranged for us to get a cab back to our hotel in Sarria. The same driver will get us back there tomorrow.
Again, riding with a Spanish cab driver on the open road is a cheap Formula One experience. She undid 7 hours of walking in 17 minutes. I’m sure she pulled 2Gs on some of the corners. The ones when she wasn’t talking on the cell phone, that is.
We did this part of the Camino 12 years ago with Bob and Liz, so some things look familiar. The first few minutes were really crowded with tour groups leaving at the same time as we did. To get a Compostella you have to walk at least 100 km, and Sarria is the first big town at 113 km, so bus loads of tourists arrive to do the short walk (sneer). They mostly peeled off at the 5 km mark into the first bar complex, and things thinned out after that. Later in the day we were virtually alone again.
In Galicia the Camino turns into a cow path – not a small path, just a path used to move cows from pasture to milking. The path is often covered with all too fresh cow manure, accompanied by clouds of flies feeding on the good bits.
It was a long walk with a couple stops. At one we were able to get our first feed of Padron peppers. We are getting closer!
We arrived at Portomarin at about 3:30 after some 7 hours of walking, nearly 24 km, and about 158 floors of altitude gain (and most of it lost again). Portomarin was to be inundated in 1956 by a hydro dam installation, so they moved the whole town up the hill, including the church, numbered stone block by block. The church looks more like a fortress, and is very plain and unadorned inside. I’m assuming they got all the blocks back in the right places.
Portomarin was an important bridge crossing since before Roman times. The modern bridge is long and low, and ends in a long stairway to get to the town. Because of the deep river valley the descent to the bridge was long and painful. Tomorrow, there is an equally long climb out of the valley – some 320 m followed by an even longer hike than today. We will be exhausted.
Tonight we could find the energy to walk out our front door for dinner, and got caught up in the Sunday evening mothers-with-strollers get together on the promenade. Sunday evening show off, I guess.
Got very excited at the mention of padrons – any seeds spotted? We could get back into production. Really enjoying your blog. Happy trails
Already got some seeds and will try for a few more packets in case the coffee group needs some too. What we are getting here now are grown in Morocco so are not the “real” thing. They still taste good though.
24 km….truly amazing. It makes my feet and legs hurt just thinking about it, and I hope yours don’t give you more grief in protest. We are in Drunheller, where it is hot and flat (except where the dinosaurs are hiding), and Buger King ran out of 9 (!) items on the menu. No peppers in sight. Only 6 more days?!….may they be filled with good adventures….and pictures and stories for us!
I’m a late comer to the blog and have finally caught up with your travels. Good to see the feet seem to be in better shape this time around. Good luck on the final push.
I’m loving reading your blogs – I almost feel I’m there with you – minus the blisters and sore joints of course. The trails you are on now look really beautiful. I could see myself being one of those busies! 100k is still pretty impressive! Lol i think I could do it too as it appears there are coffee shops along the route – essential for me! I hope your blisters aren’t bothering you too much. You’re almost there! Take care lynn
You are both looking so fit – and happy. Is it because it was the end of the day?
Keep up the good work. ANd have fun too.