Leaving Leon – 310 km to Santiago!
As we left Leon we stopped by the Basilica de San Isadoro, a 11th century Romanesque complex. The whole thing is worth hours of tour, but of particular note is the altar mayor, a complex of 24 painted panels on the life of the Virgin from 1522. Also to be noted are the carved capitals. The book goes into much greater detail on the rest of the art. Not to be missed, second only to the cathedral. But we were on a walking mission, and it took an hour and a half to walk to the edge of Leon itself.
Once again the Camino splits into a scenic route and a quicker one. We opted for the quicker one, since our pre-booked hotel was on that route. We could have taken the other one and taxied over.
Unfortunately, the direct route takes the same route as the highway, so again a 20 km day of walking by a highway. Towns along the way were not notable; churches modern, but on old sites.
So at about 2:30 we arrived at the designated hotel. It is an imposing new 3 storey structure on the edge of a large truck stop. Up the front steps, and the door is locked. There are a number notices in Spanish plastered around that don’t help at all. Pressing an intercom button got a response in the usual unintelligible intercom voice, but even more unintelligible in Spanish. We finally deciphered that he wanted our name, but providing that didn’t help. He finally gave up, and buzzed the door open. The lobby was totally vacant except for our luggage, but there were 20 or so room keys on the counter, accompanied by the same unintelligible intercom voice. Just pick a key, maybe? While we were dealing with that dilemma, a cleaning girl showed up. She apparently could understand the intercom, as she gave us a key from the selection, and motioned us off. After prodding, she told us where to get breakfast, and showed us to the room. We seem to be the only people in this huge building, aside from the cleaning girl. All very unusual, as most Spanish hotels want at least one, and often two, passport details; meticulously noted. Here we had a room provided by a voice that could have been on the moon.
We wandered over to the designated breakfast place/bar next door. It defiantly was the truck stop bar portion of the complex, but it appeared to have a dining room as well, apparently entered through the kitchen. By now it was 4 PM and well into Spanish lunch time so we opted for the meal of the day. Salad, paella, and excellent grilled fish (and the normal bottle of red) made a great meal. The bill came to 80€ – $120! More careful reading of the bill revealed that included the room rate. The argument then became whether he should get that money from us or our travel organizer. We paid for the meal only, on the understanding that the travel company would clear it up by morning. It has all been very unusual.
At least it looks as if you are getting some nice weather, and you certainly deserved the feast…those are Serious Miles you have been putting in! Hope your blister isn’t causing grief, Stacey, and your Keens are treating you well, MaryAnne. Maybe the rhythm of the Spanish walk is taking hold?
Much more fun than the Election you are missing….
Hope all is straightened up by morning.
have a restful night.
You made it! And had a bottle of wine at the end of the trail that day! That would definitely keep me going if I had a meal, a bottle of wine and a bed waiting for me! How far do you have to go tomorrow?