León – October 20, 2016

Vic was feeling a bit better this morning so we partook of our provided breakfast coupon in the cafeteria next door. From her list of edibles,she was able to eat the potato tortilla which is standard fare in every Spanish establishment. Another unusual (to me) breakfast fare is tomato and olive oil on toast. We first ran into it some time ago when at one breakfast a guy mashed an overripe tomato on to his toast, poured olive oil on it, and tucked in. Since then we have seen packets of mashed tomato and packets of olive oil alongside the little packets of marmalade (which are usually peach jam) that come with our toast. This morning tomato and oil was also offered, but pre-made in the kitchen.

She was also feeling well enough to go shopping in the fabric and baby clothes shops. This afternoon we had lunch with an American lady with a bad ankle. Turns out she was a naturopath of some kind, on a walking vacation, and was also a walking dispensary. She left Vic with a couple of days supply of various natural remedy pills that she claimed would cure everything.  Sounds a bit sketchy to me.

Anyway we ate in a Japanese-Spanish restaurant (great! – a menu in TWO languages I don’t understand). It was the only place in Spain where you can get the clear soup and pure white rice on the ‘what she can eat’ menu. Everywhere else puts a lot of olive oil in everything.

This afternoon we hit the cathedral. It really is one of the best. It is an early Gothic design, and subsequent additions and extensions have retained much of that spirit. An 1850 to 1900 restoration worked wonders at keeping it from collapsing and looking new. It is best known for its huge amount of stained glass – 1600 square meters – exceeded only by Chartres. It makes the interior light and bright, as well as colourful. There is little interior decoration, letting the columns, arches and windows speak for themselves. The altarpiece is a tasteful 13th century reconstruction. The original was replaced in the 17th century by a gilded baroque model that was so large it covered the windows. Good taste had it removed in the 1900 reconstruction, and replaced by the original design and the surviving original bits they could find – five painted panels. There is a large choir in the center (instead of up by the altar where it should be), as result of the reconstruction. It has a vast amount of beautiful 15th century wood carving on the choir walls and stalls that would be nicer if you could get closer. There is a 16th century wall at the rear of the choir which is well done, but I think out of place, cluttering up the architecture. And I am the local expert on church design. The massive organ is 4 years old. León’s cathedral must be seen.