One of the scourges of the Camino walkers is the cyclists who act as though they must get to Santiago by tonight. As you walk in quiet contemplation there is the scruch of gravel, possibly the faint ‘tink’ of a bell, and 1.6 seconds later it is candlepin bowling with pilgrims diving for the verges. Fie on them!
We are in Naverrete tonight, a short 14 km from Logrono. Vic has arranged a rest day here tomorrow as well. It is a lovely little town with the narrow medieval streets arranged in concentric arcs along the hillside. There are enough cross streets and intersections to keep 0ne totally confused. Only half of the streets have name signs, and it is a different half than the map has named. It does not have the appearance of being walled, as they were all destroyed in a civil war. It has only the minimum services, except for bars, of which it has many, many. We are in another fine (the only) hotel and, because we are staying two nights, have the best room. It is actually a suite, with an expansive view over the town. It is again located directly over the bar. How lucky can we be?
The church is again one of note – and right across the street. Construction started in 1533, and was not finished for centuries. Its exterior is nothing of note, but the interior…….!!! The retablo out-baroques the best of the baroques. It is the baroquiest! Even the guidebooks say so. It was carved over a four year period about 1700, which makes it late baroque, almost rococo. Its Solomonic columns in particular are exquisite. Damn, I’m getting good at this! I found the light box and spent a euro on five minutes of illumination which was well worth it. It is amazing. It is worth hours of study. An honours religious art major assistant would be a help though.
We had supper on the terrace of the nearest square (actually, public area, nothing resembling a square). My garbanzo and spinach soup was divine, and served in a tureen so large we could have fed several. The ribs and chips were boiled in oil, and may have been somewhat less healthy. There were several families there, enjoying their Sunday evening together.
My Spanish is improving. Who am I kidding? I only know 5 words and use them wrongly. To ask for the bill, I call the waiter over and confidently say, in perfect Spanish, “Town Hall”. He looks confused.
Glad to hear that you are able to put your feet up…? literally as well as figuratively?…MaryAnne, so I hope they appreciate the break, and heal up some. It sounds like a good place to enjoy the Spanish culture, etc.
The church you describe, Stacey….would that be the one that has “..the triple aisled construction illustrating a mix of Renaissance coffered barrel vaults and Plateresque motifs…”? Hope you’ll be able to translate for us when you return.
Thanks Stacey for another good laugh as I read your Blog! You are right! You ARE getting good at this – Keeping your friends informed on the sights and it does sounds like you know what you are talking about! I’m beginning to think we should have made the trip with you – except we probably couldn’t have done it unless we were on one of those bikes!
MaryAnne & Stacey
Your writings are a highlight of the day. I am laughing out lout at the Spanish attempts. Wonderful.
The churches sound magnificent. So hard to imagine them in these small places, one after another, and so full of great art.
On your next trip to Edmonton, I hereby demand an overnight stay and a chance to see ALL the photos.
Stay safe, Stay happy. Eat well. Drink – for hydration sake of course. And MaryAnne, keep healing. Enjoy the rest day.
lout =Loud in my lousy spelling!
Travel and dining out can be a challenge. Cy has had it with fish but I think a good chowder is still a fine thing.
Poured rain all day..good thing for Chester, Nova Scotia as they are experiencing a drought.
Onward to Newfoundland tomorrow.
Walk on!
The Spanish menus would be a real challenge but most places have an English translation although that can present almost as much of a challenge as filet of beef doesn’t look anything like you expect. The soups are very good just as they were in Portugal. The treatment of protein is always a surprise.
No rain here so far – pretty much perfect walking weather.
Didn’t realize Nfld. was part of your itinerary. Enjoy!