One of the scourges of the Camino walkers is the cyclists who act as though they must get to Santiago by tonight. As you walk in quiet contemplation there is the scruch of gravel, possibly the faint ‘tink’ of a bell, and 1.6 seconds later it is candlepin bowling with pilgrims diving for the verges. Fie on them!
We are in Naverrete tonight, a short 14 km from Logrono. Vic has arranged a rest day here tomorrow as well. It is a lovely little town with the narrow medieval streets arranged in concentric arcs along the hillside. There are enough cross streets and intersections to keep 0ne totally confused. Only half of the streets have name signs, and it is a different half than the map has named. It does not have the appearance of being walled, as they were all destroyed in a civil war. It has only the minimum services, except for bars, of which it has many, many. We are in another fine (the only) hotel and, because we are staying two nights, have the best room. It is actually a suite, with an expansive view over the town. It is again located directly over the bar. How lucky can we be?
The church is again one of note – and right across the street. Construction started in 1533, and was not finished for centuries. Its exterior is nothing of note, but the interior…….!!! The retablo out-baroques the best of the baroques. It is the baroquiest! Even the guidebooks say so. It was carved over a four year period about 1700, which makes it late baroque, almost rococo. Its Solomonic columns in particular are exquisite. Damn, I’m getting good at this! I found the light box and spent a euro on five minutes of illumination which was well worth it. It is amazing. It is worth hours of study. An honours religious art major assistant would be a help though.
We had supper on the terrace of the nearest square (actually, public area, nothing resembling a square). My garbanzo and spinach soup was divine, and served in a tureen so large we could have fed several. The ribs and chips were boiled in oil, and may have been somewhat less healthy. There were several families there, enjoying their Sunday evening together.
My Spanish is improving. Who am I kidding? I only know 5 words and use them wrongly. To ask for the bill, I call the waiter over and confidently say, in perfect Spanish, “Town Hall”. He looks confused.
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