Today was one of the longer days of our schedule – some 23 km. There were no mountain ranges, but enough significant ups and downs to fully check out the jellied muscles of yesterday.
I (we) love walking on the Camino in Spain. At exactly 10AM you turn right into a sun-dappled courtyard where the tables of a roadside café await you. For 2€ ($3C) you can order up a double espresso – giving you a shot of caffeine that will make a Starbucks barista’s eyes water.
There are three such high points to the walking day: morning coffee, lunch, and afternoon coffee. At about 11:30 or 12 you turn left into the sun-dappled courtyard…..etc. There you can get a beer and a bocadillo. 11:30 is not too early for a beer, if you are walking – is it?
A bocadillo is the Spanish Camino equivalent of an American hamburger – generic fast food. It consists of a half of a French baguette containing a few paper thin slices of stringy ham or salami. It may also contain cheese, if you are fortunate in your choice of sun-dappled…..etc. In France we had a paté version. It does not come with butter or any condiments. Knowing this we brought a zillion packets of Canadian mustard to zing up the ham.
Afternoon coffee may or may not be another beer, depending on whether you have finished walking. By mid-afternoon conversation flags somewhat and each is left with their own thoughts, debating internally deep philosophical questions like “Lord, will this downhill ever end?” That last three km into Zubiri down a stony ditch was a real killer.
The standard greeting when encountering anybody is the Spanish hello – Hola! When passing, or being passed on the trail, a “Bon Camino!” is required. In either case, if the reception and accent is acceptable, it is immediately followed by “Where are you from?” The answer to that can lead to many interesting conversations. One of the customs of the Camino community.
We encountered a pair of retired lady teachers near our age from Alaska last night. However they run marathons so they intend to walk a couple towns further than us tomorrow. We will only see their backs, and that for not long.
We briefly met a young Spanish couple that had just finished doing the Camino backwards. I thought that was impossible, since you would always have to look over your shoulder to see the yellow arrows pointing the way you had just came from. Of course you could just struggle upstream against the oncoming tide of Pilgrims. Hola! would wear thin after a while.
The Camino is remarkably clean with nary a piece of litter to be seen. No candy wrappers or Macdonalds containers. Only the ubiquitous tissues behind every tree.
The weather today was good, cool in the morning and rather warm for walking this afternoon. The forecast is for walking in pouring rain tomorrow, just to test us.
If you had mentioned frequent coffee stops and beer for lunch, I might had considered doing it with you! On second thought, that would have meant frequent stops behind every tree or bush as well!
It is great to follow your trip. It reminds me of meeting you after your walk from Portugal.
Hope all goes well for the remainder of the trail.
What???? Coffee, lunch, & midafternoon coffee or beer in a sun-dappled courtyard? How is it we signed up for lunch (from your backpack) on the best rock (seat) you could find, Period! Must say I’m enjoying your journey though. Keep up the good work!!
We invited you to come on this walk, Judy.
Everyday, as soon as I read your post, I feel compelled to do a quick internet search for the town name that you give. Makes me feel that I am by your sides.
Keep up the good work.
Will remember to send a positive wish for you in the churches we visit.