The rain today wasn’t predicted until 3 so we left in cool weather gear with the rain gear in the packs. The church in Acebo was walled off and the only small gate access totally overgrown with weeds. Obviously the people of this town were worshipping somewhere else.
During the search in the next town, Riego de Ambros, for the 10:30 coffee bar (closed on Sunday apparently) we found an unlocked and unattended access stairway to the bell tower of the local church. We got up there with the bells, but resisted the obvious impulse.
The walk was downhill all day, mainly on bedrock trails. The last bit into Ponferrada was typical city walking – 18 km total. That’s our limit.
Somewhere early in the day we saw a statue that looked like a rock with a rope around its neck. Vic ruminated on that all day and decided it portrayed the local food delicacy, Botillo del Bierzo. From then on nothing would suit her but to have it for lunch.
We eventually found a dining room offering it. I had the cheaper Menu del Dia of meatball stuffed mushroom caps and a pork fillet in a pepper sauce. It was great. Her delicacy was a fist sized hunk of meat in a sausage style casing. It came with the apparently traditional accompaniment of a chunk of chorizo, boiled potato, stewed cabbage and garbanzo beans. The meat turned out to be (after Googleing it) the rib ends and tail and like pieces of pig, in a casing, and cured like ham. A lot of bones and little meat. Should have Googled it first. I call it “Bag of Hambones”.
The big attraction of Ponferrada is the Templar castle. It was closed when we were here a decade ago. Castles have strange hours. I have never missed a chance to do a complete castle tour so we did this one too. It is a great castle in pretty good condition. Has some good exhibits as well as the basic castle fabric.
The rain never materialized and it was sunny most of the day. Back to shorts tomorrow if this holds.
Stairs to nowhere? Followed by something to eat that looked positively phallic to my Puritan eyes.
Walk on!
it just hit me that without the luggage van, you 2 would have had to take along a little donkey to cary the supplies. Now I can’t wipe that image out of my head (-:
Belated Happy Mother’s Day Vic! Looks like you had a very interesting day despite the steep downhill walks Vic, you were very brave to eat that”mystery meat” for dinner – not going to tell you what I thought it was!!
Enjoy the castles and quaint towns and say a prayer for a special request along the way when you visit a church!
I will keep your request in mind. Too bad I couldn’t have read this sooner. I think we stopped in 3 churches today. Hope everything is ok with you?
That walk looks difficult. Glad you make it without incident.
Still very cool here. Thinking about planting but thursday seems to be the first possible day.
Stay healthy
Glad you made it through that downhill rocky section safely….perfect for slipping and turning an ankle.Belated Happy Mother’s Day, Vic. While you were touring a castle, we were celebrating at Jean and Johns. I know I vowed not to complain about our weather, but it’s been awful. Colin’s 1st Communion party was ridiculous even with tents, heat lights, fire pit…..you’ll see photos on facebook. Everyone made the best of the day and we had fun. Blustery and cold again today!