The TV weather this morning showed all of Spain under rain clouds. It was just spitting lightly when we started, but it only took 50 meters to realize that we needed full rain gear. With raincoat or poncho and waterproof pants, rain is not that uncomfortable. There was however an unremitting cold west wind that turned a poncho into a kite. The rain quit by 10, reducing the need for pants, but the wind never let up.
There were a few ups and downs on the trail indicating that we are coming to the end of the meseta flatland. We came across one of ‘The Places On The Camino’, David’s la Casa de los Dioses ❤ Cantina. This guy lives in an old farm, not much more than adobe fence walls, and provides free food (and I think philosophy) to passing pilgrims. He had all sorts of stuff out including freshly cut pineapple, watermelon, apples, oranges, cookies, figs, hard boiled eggs, everything, including a shelter with a fire for this weather. There were a couple dozen people there taking it in. He did have a donations box, but it was not obvious. One of the sights of the Camino.
We arrived after 18 km at Astorga, located on a ridge, testing our stamina. Astorga is market town of about 12,000. It was at a significant Roman crossroads, and later became important on the Camino as a place to build up strength for the climbs to come (!).
The hotel turned out to be one of those marble lobbied places that we sullied with our boots and poles. They must cringe to see us come. Three desk staff in natty dress contrast with the hotel of two days ago with a lobby staff consisting of a cheap intercom voice from wherever.
After settling in (and changing socks), we headed for the sights of the city. The cathedral is most prominent. It was started in 1471, but has suffered much rebuilding since. The west facade carvings from 1704 are said to resemble a baroque retablo, much of it still in very good condition. In the interior, “for such a small cathedral, the naves are unusually high”. It has a number of side chapels, each with an impressive retablo. The choir stalls are beautifully carved in walnut and the organ has over 2000 pipes. Despite the rebuilding, it gives me the impression of a finished, unified whole. They also have an excellent museum attached.
Beside the cathedral is Iglesias de Santa Marta – a small church apparently with works of note but lost between the cathedral and the Bishop’s Palace.
The palace was designed by Antonio Gaudi and in impressiveness competes with the cathedral. We toured it when we were here a decade ago, but passed it up this time for lunch.
This time we forwent (past tense of forgo – look it up – I had to) the seedy pub approach and picked an up-market looking restaurant that it appeared real Spanish people were entering. To start Vic had thick leek soup and I had a plate of garbanzo and stewed cabbage. We both had trout again, this time poached in a flavored sauce. Vic had her creme caramel and coffee, and I had my cheesecake. All this with a full bottle of red wine for €25, about $37C total . Without the compunction to tip. The wine alone in Canada would cost near that. It almost pays to come to Spain for a meal.
Then we wandered around town until the rain drove us in.
So, there have been questions on blisters. The one I got first never has caused a problem – it appears to be more a sheet of skin coming loose from the bottom of my foot, as opposed to a weeping painful blister. I got anther tiny, tiny one on my big toe that was really painful, until drained with a band aid on it. All good now. I think I should have taken a chance on my old worn out shoes, rather than get new ones. Although they were no longer waterproof, and that may soon become important.
Vic however continues in her normal fashion with a blister on nearly every toe, and possibly a loosening another nail. At least she is used to this condition by now. It was my long held contention that her shoes were too small, and that larger shoes would cure the problem. I was wrong. In my defence I will say larger shoes haven’t made it any worse.
The trails are to get worse as we enter the mountains.
You must be logged in to post a comment.